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Celebrating The Great Mademoiselle – Coco Chanel – Soon In London

Exactly 132 years ago one of the most stylish woman of the twentieth century was born – Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. The legendary Coco changed forever the perception of   women all over the world, being the only designer who got to be on the list of “100 most influential people of the XX century,” according to Time Magazine. Every child knows who she is, the crossed letter C logo, along with her quotes and remarks which turned into movies and musicals. 

Today, on her birthday, I want to take the opportunity to remind you how an orphan from the town of Saumur was able to become one of the most influential figures of its time, and why she deserves all the glory. 

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Coco Chanel’s exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London

Gabrielle is 11 when her mother,  Eugénie Jeanne Devolle ( laundrywoman in the charity hospital run by the Sisters of Providence), dies of bronchitis at the age of 31. Her father, Albert Chanel ( street vendor of work clothes and undergarment), sends her to the convent of Aubazine,  where life was frugal and demanding strict discipline. This period puts a huge mark on her work – her collections came out as formless dresses in austere black.

At 18 she goes to work in the theater, where she mets her first patron, Étienne Balsan, a young French ex-cavalry officer, who drove her into a life of luxury and decadence by making her his mistress. She soon leaves him for one of his friends, Captain Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel, a wealthy member of the English upper class. He installs her in an apartment in Paris and finances Chanel’s first shops. Coco is still often accused because she received start-up capital, but do not forget that in the beginning of the twentieth century women entrepreneurs were not usual or normal to meet, and Coco was all for the independence. In 1910 she opens her first store hats, which, frankly, no one was buying, but she just had to wait.

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Coco Chanel’s exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London

After a couple of years, the most fashionable and wealthy women of Paris lines up to Chanel, whose outfits, long before this, all seemed ridiculous: no excessive decoration, simple straight silhouettes, architectural hats, restrained colors, and, above all, the use of jersey and tricot – humble fabrics primarily used for men’s underwear. Coco comes up with the first bag that can be worn on the shoulder – the same 2.55; dresses the whole world into “mourning” with the little black dress, covering the knees; debuts with the first ever synthetic aroma, Chanel №5; she introduces the fashion for short haircuts, cutting off their chic hair; and gives us the same tweed suit which Jacqueline Kennedy loved so much.  Deprived by Arthur Capel (in 1916 Chanel was able to reimburse Capel his original investment—a decision Chanel made on her own, without Capel’s input), who dies in a car accident, she never marries, and that is not welcomed at the beginning of the XX century. She becomes one of the first self-made  woman, which means more than the modern sense of the word. Karl Lagerfeld carries on her legacy for over 30 years, a reputation that is not just about a successful fashion house , but the embodiment of fashion and luxury. 

In her honour London Saatchi Gallery hosts an exhibition seen through Karl Lagerfeld’s eyes, focused on her fashion career – a selection of haute couture pieces, a focus on the perfume that has featured in Vogue the most – Chanel №5 – and a re-edition of the Bijoux de Diamants haute jewelry collection created in 1932 and recently reinterpreted by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016. Check it out in London, from October 13 to November 1 2015

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Coco Chanel’s exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London
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Coco Chanel’s exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London
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Coco Chanel’s exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London
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10 Coffee Table Books – All About Fashion

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Veruschka: From Vera to Veruschka, Rizzoli, €75

Veruschka: From Vera to Veruschka

She was one of the biggest faces of the 1960s. Actress and muse to photographer Franco RubbartelliVera von Lendhorff became Veruschka over the course of her a career that still holds us in thrall today. A beautiful new tome from Rizzoli – by photographer Johnny Moncada, who shot her several times for Italian Vogue – presents a 300-strong edit of thousands of recently discovered and previously unpublished pictures of the German model. From Rome to Capri, via the white sand beaches of Sardinia, the volume charts the Dolce Vita of the long-legged baby doll on shoots in Italy, as she plays femme fatale, young innocent and water nymph in the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Veruschka: From Vera to Veruschka, Rizzoli, €75.

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Dior- The Legendary Images, Rizzoli, €35

Dior: Images en Légende

Granville, Christian Dior’s childhood home since converted into a museum of the designer’s life, is preparing to welcome the Dior: Images en Légende exhibition September 3 to 21. The show explores the dialogue between the legendary fashion house and the world of photography and in parallel, a new book from Rizzoli retraces Dior history, as seen by some of the biggest fashion photographers  in the world. Fashion historian Florence Müller has brought together a collection of more than 200 photographs ranging from well-known press images to behind-the-scenes shots, from image-makers including Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Helmut Newtonand Peter Lindbergh. Florence was also behind last October’s Dior: Impressions.

Dior: The Legendary Images, Rizzoli, €35.

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Oscar de la Renta, Assouline, €90

Oscar de la Renta: The Style, Inspiration and Life of Oscar de la Renta

US designer Oscar de la Renta launched his label back in 1965 and his opulently romantic uptown look soon became a reference of American style. In the tradition of Charles James, considered to be one of the first US couturiers, long dresses with structured bodices feature in most of his collections and after concentrating on his ready-to-wear collections for 35 years, in 2000 the designer launched his first accessories and leather line, adding the final touch to his super feminine looks. Chairman of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers Awards) from 1973 to 1976 and creative director at Balmain from 1993 to 2002, from his first fashion steps as an assistant at Lanvin to the creation of his own fashion house, Oscar de la Renta has evolved with the times to become one of the greatest designers of his generation. A new book from Abrams prefaced by Anna Wintour, retraces this journey in tribute to a man who has played a central role in the fashion industry for nearly 50 years. A sumptuous look back at more than four decades of fashion history through photographs from the designer’s own personal archive and many previously unseen documents.

Oscar de la Renta, Assouline, €90.

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Fashionable Selby, Abrams, €38

Fashionable Selby

Launched in 2008 by Todd Selby, theselby.com takes a behind-the-scenes look at the creative processes of some of the artists of the moment through a carefully composed look inside their homes and studios. The site is now bookmarked by creatives around the world and the American photographer has gone on to publish two books, The Selby is in your Place bringing together his best images, and The Edible Selby, featuring personalities from the food world. Fashionable Selby is a third tome that lifts the lid on fashion through a mosaic of inspiring images from around the world. From the offices of Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia to the design studios of Dries van Noten, the book paints a sincere portrait of a fascinating milieu.

Fashionable Selby, Abrams, 38.

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Annie Leibovitz, published by Taschen, €2,000

Annie Leibovitz

Named Commander of the French Order of Arts and Letters in 2006, Annie Leibovitz has been photographing artists, politicians and actors for the biggest names in the publishing world for the past 40 years. From Rolling Stone to Vogue US, she is the name behind some iconic images, including the special Hollywood cover of American Vanity Fair every year, Annie Leibovitz is considered as one of the biggest names in fashion photography, who still works with  houses like Louis Vuitton andChristian Dior on their advertising campaigns. Her timeless pictures bring together a clutch of different inspirations, which are displayed in a book as big as her talent. There are only 9,000 copies of the tome available, the 76cm thick, 25 kilos SUMO retraces Annie Leibovitz‘s career with 250 large-scale prints on which to feast your eyes.

Annie Leibovitz, published by Taschen, €2,000.

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Seven Sisters Style, published by Rizzoli, €26

Seven Sisters Style

The Seven Sisters group of seven women-only American universities counts amongst its alumni such stars of the silver screen as Katharine Hepburn and Meryl Streep. For the first time, the Seven Sisters Style book looks over the preppy style of the young women who have become synonymous with elegance, grace and refinement, for their classic look that mixes tomboy inspiration with aristocratic spirit, in a sporty-preppy mash-up for girls from good families. The book explores the many sides of this inspiring style, painting a portrait of The Seven Sisters from the 1920s to the present day. From Dior, to Balenciaga and Band of Outsiders, so many fashion houses have been inspired by a style which is still relevant today.

Seven Sisters Style, published by Rizzoli,  €26.

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The House of Worth, published by Abrams, €30.

The House of Worth: Portrait of an archive

Charles Frederick Worth was a British-French couturier who launched his own house in 1858 and is now widely regarded as the founding figure of haute couture. A true visionary, it was Worth who changed the fashion world drastically from the 1850s onwards; he didn’t just design to meet his clients’ needs, Charles Frederick Worth created silhouettes that had never been seen before, marketing them with his own name and holding runway shows to showcase them in luxurious salons. It is also to him that the idea of seasonal fashion can be accredited, as his collections changed over the course of the year to cater to his clients every desire, before they even knew them, themselves. In gathering numerous color illustrations and near to 300 photographs from its own fashion archives, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has created an Abrams-published work of 176 pages which trace the history of the first Paris fashion house, making it an indispensable reference for one of the most important chapters in fashion history.

The House of Worth, published by Abrams,  €30.

10 Corso Como- A to Z, published by Rizzoli, €38
10 Corso Como- A to Z, published by Rizzoli, €38

10 Corso Como: A to Z

Although she had been a journalist since the end of the 1960s, in 1990Carla Sozzani, sister of Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani, took a step into the art world when she opened her first modern art gallery in Milan’s 10 Corso Como. The former garage was converted into a brand new space which has welcomed more than 250 photography, fashion and design exhibitions since it opened, shining a spotlight on some of the art world’s biggest players, from Paco Rabanne to Man Ray. 10 Corso Como has been constantly evolving since the 1990s, and now features a store, restaurant and hotel, making it an must on the Milan trail. Carla Sozzanihas also opened a Japanese outpost of 10 Corso Como in Tokyo with Rei Kawabuko of Comme des Garçons, as well as three Oriental boutiques: two in Seoul and one in Shanghai. She has become an important fashion and art figure, and now, the former journalist and close friend to Azzedine Alaïa opens her world on the pages of 10 Corso Como, giving an interesting insight into the fashion world today. Via memories and tips, words and images, 10 Corso Como tracks the evolution of the eponymous concept store that brings style and culture together so effortlessly.

10 Corso Como: A to Z, published by Rizzoli, €38.

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A Denim Story, Rizzoli, €25

A Denim Story

As Vogue Paris sets its sights on the big blue for April, Current/Elliot founder-designers Emily Current and Merit Elliott guide us back through the history of the timeless must-have blue jeans. A symbol of US culture around the world, the new book is an inspired look back at an endlessly reinvented classic, from Kate Moss’ signature grey skinnies to Current/Elliott‘s own boyfriend jeans. Iconic photos and the authors’ own designer moodboards come together in a visual love letter to the denim jean that will transport you to the US West.

A Denim Story, Rizzoli, €25.

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Halston & Warhol- Silver & Suede, published by Abrams, €40

Halston & Warhol: Silver & Suede

In their own ways, both Halston and Warhol shocked the fashion and art worlds with their fresh visions of beauty, becoming legends of the American creative scene in the 1970s. While Andy Warhol turned contemporary art criticism on its head with his silkscreen prints and criticism of consumer culture, Roy Halston Frowick made American fashion more accessible with his brightly colored flowing dresses. Setting its sights on Studio 54 and the 1970s, Halston & Warhol brings the link that united the two men to light with a series of unseen documents, photographs and reproductions of each of the artists’ work.

Halston & Warhol: Silver & Suede, published by Abrams, €40.

Source vogue.fr

Cartier 1928 - Platinum, gold, crystal, diamond, faceted mirror, enamel, coral, onyx, pearl, jade and mother-of-pearl pendulum clock. N.Hermann, collezione Cartier © Cartier.

The History Of Cartier – Paris Exhibition

This is the most important exhibition ever dedicated to the jewellery house. From classicism to the masterpieces that earned the brand the title of ‘jeweler to kings’ to the radical inventions of modern style – as Art Deco was called – and from geometric shapes to exotic ones.

About 600 jewels, objects, watches and clocks will be on display, accompanied by descriptions that testify to the tastes in art at the time. There will also be sketches and documents from the archive that allow this exhibition to tell of the historical figures that Cartier seduced over the years – from Marjorie Merriweather Post to Grace Kelly, from Barbara Hutton to Marlene Dietrich, from Daisy Fellowes to the Duchess of Windsor all the way to the maharajas of that much dreamed-about India that wasn’t so far off anymore.

Cartier 1928 - Platinum, gold, crystal, diamond, faceted mirror, enamel, coral, onyx, pearl, jade and mother-of-pearl pendulum clock. N.Hermann, collezione Cartier © Cartier.
Cartier 1928 – Platinum, gold, crystal, diamond, faceted mirror, enamel, coral, onyx, pearl, jade and mother-of-pearl pendulum clock. N.Hermann, collezione Cartier © Cartier.
Cartier 1957 - Platinum and white gold Palm brooch with seven Burma rubies.
Cartier 1957 – Platinum and white gold Palm brooch with seven Burma rubies.
Sir Yadavindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala - In an illustration of the New York Herald in 1928 wearing a parade necklace created by Cartier for his father.
Sir Yadavindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala – In an illustration of the New York Herald in 1928 wearing a parade necklace created by Cartier for his father.
Cartier 1925 - Platinum Tutti Frutti bracelet with diamonds, engraved leaf-shaped sapphires and rubies, emerald spheres with a serti clos diamond, onyx, black enamel.
Cartier 1925 – Platinum Tutti Frutti bracelet with diamonds, engraved leaf-shaped sapphires and rubies, emerald spheres with a serti clos diamond, onyx, black enamel.
Cartier 1928 - Platinum parade necklace with diamonds, a yellow zircon, white zircons, white topazes, synthetic rubies, one smoked quartz and one citrine quartz.
Cartier 1928 – Platinum parade necklace with diamonds, a yellow zircon, white zircons, white topazes, synthetic rubies, one smoked quartz and one citrine quartz.
The Queen Mary, wife of King George V - She manteined a special relationship with Cartier.
The Queen Mary, wife of King George V – She manteined a special relationship with Cartier.
Cartier 1940 - Platinum and gold Flamingo brooch with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and a citrine quartz.
Cartier 1940 – Platinum and gold Flamingo brooch with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and a citrine quartz.

Cartier. Le style et l’histoire’, will be at the Grand Palais through Feb. 14, 2014.

Source vogue.it

Beyond Extravagance: Treasures Of India

Beyond Extravagances: Treasures Of India

Assouline publications has released a collector’s edition book which retraces four centuries of Indian history through the astounding jewelry collection of Sheikh Hamad-Beyond Extravagance: Treasures Of India.

Beyond Extravagance: Treasures Of India
Beyond Extravagance: Treasures Of India
Emerald, diamond and pearl necklace, around 1850 - 1900 ® Laziz
Emerald, diamond and pearl necklace, around 1850 – 1900 ® Laziz
Nawanagar white gold and diamond tuban ornament, around 1935 ® Laziz
Nawanagar white gold and diamond tuban ornament, around 1935 ® Laziz
latinum and diamond turban ornament with a 109.5 carat Sri Lankan coussin-cut sapphir, around 1920 ® Laziz
latinum and diamond turban ornament with a 109.5 carat Sri Lankan coussin-cut sapphir, around 1920 ® Laziz
The Shah Jahan Emerald
The Shah Jahan Emerald
The Nizam of Hyderabad Ceremonial Sword in gold, diamonds, rubies and emeralds, around 1880 -1900 ® Laziz
The Nizam of Hyderabad Ceremonial Sword in gold, diamonds, rubies and emeralds, around 1880 -1900 ® Laziz

 

Source vogue.fr

Mellerio dits Meller: 400 years of history

Mellerio dits Meller: 400 Years Of History

It’s a story that spans 14 generations of one family, running from the Craveggia valley on the Swiss-Italian border, to Paris’ rue de la Paix, via some of the most colorful figures in the European royal history. Jewelry historian, Vincent Meylan, takes us through the Mellerio dits Meller story, in a new book from Télémaque.

Mellerio dits Meller: 400 years of history
Mellerio dits Meller: 400 years of history

With jewelry for Marie-Antoinette, brooches for Princess Mathilde and tiaras for the court of the Netherlands, some of the biggest names in European royal history have deep roots in the history of Mellerio dits Meller. The story of this jeweler to kings and queens has been written in gold and precious stones ever since Marie de Medicis lent her support to the house in 1613, and it’s one that fired the imagination of designer Edéenne for the anniversary collection in July. Writer Vincent Meylan traces the Mellerio saga back through 400 years of royal success and secrets told behind the arras, in a new book from Télémaque set for release in France October 17.

Sketches of a set for Maréchale Canrobert by Mellerio dits Meller in 1863
Sketches of a set for Maréchale Canrobert by Mellerio dits Meller in 1863
Two snake bracelets by Mellerio dits Meller circa 1860 © Christie's
Two snake bracelets by Mellerio dits Meller circa 1860 © Christie’s
Oscar Massin drawing for a diamond and ruby set by Mellerio dits Meller
Oscar Massin drawing for a diamond and ruby set by Mellerio dits Meller
Diamond crown created by Mellerio dits Meller for a Spanish ducal famiily in the second half of the 19th century © Christie's
Diamond crown created by Mellerio dits Meller for a Spanish ducal famiily in the second half of the 19th century © Christie’s
Sketched tiara ideas dating back to 1860 by Mellerio dits Meller
Sketched tiara ideas dating back to 1860 by Mellerio dits Meller
Mellerio dits Meller rose brooch for Princess Mathilde
Mellerio dits Meller rose brooch for Princess Mathilde
Mellerio dits Meller gold cameo bracelet with rubies, emeralds, pearls and enamel work, from the mid-1800s.
Mellerio dits Meller gold cameo bracelet with rubies, emeralds, pearls and enamel work, from the mid-1800s.

Source vogue.fr