With a host of exhibitions, hotly awaited first collections, capsules, collaborations and launches, 2015 is set to be a fashion-packed year. From the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais and John Galliano’s first collection for Maison Martin Margiela, to the Palais Galliera’s Jeanne Lanvin retrospective and Vogue Paris’ 95th anniversary, consider this your 2015 fashion date book.
It’s the fashion event of the month each May and this year, the Costume Institute at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art is looking East for its annual exhibition, with a focus on Chinese fashion opening May 7. After 2014’s tribute to Charles James, the first great American couturier, the museum shines a light on fashion in Asia, from ancestral customs to the current cultural diversity. Through traditional costumes, paintings, pottery and film, the show draws a picture of China’s cultural richness in a series of key objects, exploring the singular aesthetic that has inspired designers for decades from Yves Saint Laurent‘s Far Eastern influences to John Galliano’s Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2003 haute couture collection inspired by opera singer Mei Lanfang. In all, more than 100 pieces of haute couture and ready-to-wear will go on show, in China: Through the Looking Glass.
China: Through the Looking Glass, May 7 to August 16, 2015 at the MET in New York.
2015 marks the fortieth anniversary oh the Milan-based Italian label and it will be a busy year for the house, with a unique fashion show during the Milano 2015 in May – for which Giorgio Armani is ambassador – the publication of a biography with Rizzoli and the opening of a new museum. Designed as a silo, a container full of ideas and projects, the new Giorgio Armani space on the Via Bergognone is already home to the label’s offices and will be officially opened during the Milano 2015 exhibition around the theme Feeding the plant, energy for life. A showcase for the creativity of Giorgio Armani through the house’s ready-to-wear, design and history, the Armani Silos museum will also feature an invention incubator, while May 19 will see the publication of Giorgio Armani, a special-edition biography from Rizzoli that paints a picture of the Italian designer and his design aesthetic made up of clean lines and elegant sportswear influences. In the designer’s own words, with photographs from Steven Meisel, David Sims, Craig McDean, Mario Testino and Annie Leibovitz, the 568-page retrospective lifts the lid on one of the biggest house’s in Italian fashion.
Armani Silos museum will open in May 2015 during the Milano 2015 exhibition (May 1 to October 31, 2015). Giorgio Armani will be published by Rizzoli May 19.
Shown for the first time in 2011, shortly after the designer’s untimely death, the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art‘s most-visited exhibition will be landing in London early spring. Put together by the New York Costume Institute, the Victoria & Albert Museum will be home to Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty from March 14 to July 19, a retrospective spanning his 1992 Central Saint Martins graduate collection, to his final Fall/Winter 2010-2011 collection left incomplete at the time of his death. Employing the same sense of showmanship as his famously original shows, the exhibition turns a timely spotlight on a unique designer and his distinctive creative world. With fresh material on his fashion training and a new chapter dedicated to his close friend and muse Kate Moss, the London edition of the exhibition will also include the life-size hologram of the British super that closed the Fall/Winter 2006-2007 show.
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, March 14 to July 19 at the V&A, Cromwell Road, London.
Hermès CEO Axel Dumas announced back in July that Christophe Lemaire would be leaving his position as creative director of the label’s womenswear collections, after four years at the helm and French designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski was appointed to replace him. The 36 year-old Anvers Académie Royale des Beaux-Arts graduate cut her teeth at Maison Martin Margiela, Céline and more recently, The Row and is preparing to show her first collection for Hermès in March, for Fall/Winter 2015 Fashion Week.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s first collection for Hermès will be shown in March 2015, at Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
After his all-white showcase in New York in late 2014, the Italian label has chosen Italy for its upcoming haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2015 show and the city in which his fledgling business took shape 55 years ago. Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli will show their new collection July 10 in Rome, in a show that will also mark the opening of a new Valentino store in the city, before the label returns to Paris Couture Week in January 2016.
The Valentino haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection will be shown in Rome, July 10, 2015
Above: Valentino haute couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015.
Master of American elegance and show-stopping red carpet glamour,Oscar de la Renta announced the arrival of Peter Copping as creative director of his eponymous fashion house, in October 2014, shortly before his untimely death. After 49 years of designing for the brand, the renowned couturier created a new role, placing Peter Copping, who recently stepped down as creative director of Nina Ricci, at the head of the American fashion house. With whispers of his appointment circulating since the end of Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015, Oscar de la Renta confirmed the rumors, revealing “I’m very happy Peter has agreed to join us”. The designer then went on to say Copping “is a great talent, we share the same sensibilities as well as a deep curiosity about the wider world, from music and art to architecture and gardens. Our industry has not always done the best job when it comes to changes in design leadership. My hope is that, in leading this selection, and actively participating in the transition, I can ensure the right design future for our company and brand.” Peter Copping will present his first collection as creative director of Oscar de la Renta in February, during Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015-2016.
Peter Copping’s first collection at Oscar de la Renta to be shown in February 2015, for Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015-2016.
Put together by the Victoria & Albert Museum and first shown in Spring 2013, the David Bowie is retrospective comes to Paris this year, to retrace a stellar 50-year career through material from the musician’s personal archives. With previously unseen photos, costumes, scores, drawings and even musical instruments, the show bears witness to an uncommon creative development, numerous artistic metamorphoses and an immeasurable impact on pop culture. An experience in sound and images created in partnership with Sennheiser, that marks the first exhibition at the Philharmonie de Paris, a new cultural center and part of the Cité de la Musique, opening January 14 2015.
David Bowie is, March 3 to May 31, 2015, at the Philharmonie de Paris
Above: The cover of the Aladdin Sane album, 1973.
A key trend for Spring/Summer 2015, Seventies fashion is also the subject of a major exhibition at the Fashion Institute Museum, seen through the work of two of its biggest names, beaux ambassadeurs, Yves Saint Laurent and Halston. Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the ’70s, is a combined retrospective that shines the spotlight on the design codes and influences that marked the decade, through 80 different looks and 20 accessories. With folksy motifs, long gypsy skirts and silk capes, the minimalist aesthetic and elegant codes of the US designer blend with Yves Saint Laurent‘s revolutionary design fantasies to paint a picture a fashion era, through two designers bound by a common desire to create an androgynous wardrobe mixing menswear influences with more feminine lines and exotic accents. Head to the Fashion Institute of Technology from February 6 to April 18 to re-live life in Studio 54 with well-dressed clients from Bianca Jagger to Diane von Furstenberg.
Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the ’70s, February 6 to April 18 2015, at the FIT, New York.
Apple chose to unveil its first smartwatch in the middle of Fashion Week back in September, with a Paris reveal at colette with designer Marc Newson alongside Sarah Colette, Suzy Menkes, Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld and the rest of the fashion pack. The super intelligent connected watch will be available in three models – Apple Watch, Apple Watch Sport and Apple Watch Edition – as a multitude of colored pixels shift and transform into butterflies, flowers and jellyfish to mix and match with straps ranging from warm rose gold to sports bright rubber, with an aluminum frame. Talking technics, the innovation is unparalleled, packed with sports and health features alongside a multitude of apps and for the first time on a smartwatch, customizable style to suit. The ultimate in wearable tech to synch with your iPhone, available February 2015.
Alongside this year’s top fashion exhibitions paying tribute to the likes of Jeanne Lanvin, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent, in April the Cité Internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode de Calais will open up the world of Balenciaga to the public, with a new exhibition. The Balenciaga, magicien de la dentelle retrospective will showcase the Spanish designer’s precision work through 75 of his designs and accessories, while photos and sketches from the ateliers will also be on show, including a selection of pieces that have never before been seen in France. All in all, a celebration of Cristóbal Balenciaga, who founded the couture house in 1937, the visionary designer with a penchant for fine craftsmanship displayed through an explosion of patterns and colors. For those spending the vacation outside of France, the exhibition – which will take place at the end of the Summer at the Cité Internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode de Calais – will next be shown in the designer’s hometown in Getaria, Spain, in 2016.
The “Balenciaga, magicien de la dentelle” exhibition, from April 18 to August 31 2015, at the Cité Internationale de la dentelle et de la mode de Calais.
Puig group Chairman Ralph Toldedano confirmed the arrival of Guillaume Henry back in October last year, to head up design at Nina Ricci. Formerly at Carven, where he had been designing the mens and womenswear collections since 2009, the Paris-based designer who trained at the Ecole Supérieure des Arts Appliqués Duperré, will present his first collection for the label during Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Fashion Week in March. “I take immense pleasure in welcoming Mr. Henry to Nina Ricci, with great ambitions for what we can achieve together. A remarkable talent, Guillaume holds all the qualities that come together to make a great designer: creative vision, intuition, intelligence, curiosity, charisma and an ability to bring together the best people,” declared Ralph Toledano.
Photo: Guillaume Henry by Giampaolo Sgura for Vogue Paris.
As Sonic, the exhibition dedicated to Hedi Slimane, draws to a close, the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent is preparing to welcome in its next exhibition: Jean Cocteau, une donation américaine – Robert Rubin from January 20 to February 8. Fifty-two years after his death, an exhibition curated by American collector Robert Rubin, will celebrate the life and times of the poet, graphic designer, illustrator and director, through 40 of his works. Among them, a collage dating back to 1926 and a portrait of Paul Eluard, already seen at the Centre Pompidou in 2003, will be on show, while shots of the poet by Berenice Abbott, Limot, Cecil Beatonand Pierre Jahan will complete the multi-facetted retrospective. In conjunction with this exhibition, a capsule collection with Façonnable will be released on January 12 at colette.
The Jean Cocteau, une donation américaine – Robert Rubin exhibition, from January 21 to February 8 at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in Paris
Above photo: George Platt Lynes, 1963 Estate of George Platt Lynes.
Twenty-five years after his death, the Arts Décoratifs are paying homage to painter, printer, decorator and designer, Piero Fornasetti with a new exhibition of his work. Bringing together over 1,000 pieces drawn from the archives in his hometown, Milan, Piero Fornasetti: la Folie Pratique is a fine showcase of the designer’s theatrical, poetic and fantasy-inspired pieces. Whether on clothes or accessories, interiors or plates, the Italian designer brought his roaming imagination and an element of the slightly unhinged to his work, often based on trompe l’oeil and optical illusions. Embellished with ornamentation, a design characteristic which will be at the core of the Paris exhibition, his work builds on a legacy that fuses fashion, art and design, on show from March 11 2015.
Piero Fornasetti: la Folie Pratique exhibition from March 11 to June 14 2015 at the Arts Décoratifs, Paris.
Putting an end to a year-long wait, Mulberry CEO and Chairman Godfrey Davis announced in November that Johnny Coca will join the house as creative director next year: “we are delighted that Johnny is joining us. He has a wealth of international luxury and fashion experience that will help us bring new energy and innovation to Mulberry“. The Spanish designer cut his teeth at Bally and Louis Vuitton, before moving to Céline as accessories, shoes and jewelry design director in 2010. Johnny Coca fills a gap left by Emma Hill, who left Mulberry a year ago. “I very much look forward to joining Mulberry as their new Creative Director and to leading a new design direction at one of the very best British brands,” he explained, following the announcement. The designer is preparing to take over July 8 this year and will show his first collection for Spring/Summer 2016.
Johnny Coca’s first collection for Mulberry to be shown at Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016.
The Karl Lagerfeld x Maison Michel capsule collection will be available in Maison Michel stores in February 2015.
For Anne Hathaway at the 83rd Academny Awards in 2011, Dianne Kruger at the Cannes Film Festival in 2012 and Kirsten Dunst at the Unbroken film premier in December, Vivienne Westwood was a go-to red carpet designer. This year, the Grande Dame of British fashion will debut her Gold Label capsule collection, of pieces made with the red carpet firmly in mind. Inspired by the femininity and elegance of British couturier Charles Frederick Worth‘s collections, the gala capsule will include reworked versions of the house’s classics, such as the Melba dress shown in a new array of colors, the Dora in a black and white check print and the Amber; seen on Kirsten Dunst for the Unbroken premier, in a short version. The eveningwear collection will be available from January onwards in stores and is sure to be spotted on some of the biggest names in Hollywood right through awards season, starting with the Golden Globes in January and the Academy Awards in February.
The Vivienne Westwood Gold Label red carpet collection, available from January in Vivienne Westwood boutiques.
Having announced a make-up collaboration with M.A.C next Fall, the Italian house, founded almost 50 years ago, has now teamed up with 7 For All Mankind to create a ready-to-wear capsule collection. The result of the meeting of the two houses, which mixes the fresh yet romantic codes of the fashion label with the world of denim, will be released to the Californian house’s stores in February, with collaborations with Emilio Pucci and Zac Posen also in the pipeline for the forthcoming year. The first wave of the collection will show high-waisted jeans and tops in shades of pink, red, zebra or leopard-print, while in May, a sunnier wardrobe of cobalt blue skinnies, flared jeans, a playsuit and a ruffled top will be released. With graphic lines, sumptuous curves and prints inspired by the Spring/Summer 2015 collection, Giambattista Valli infuses the Springtime collection with his signature codes, which we’ll be snapping up as soon as we can.
Giambattista Valli x 7 For All Mankind, in stores February and May 2015, between $350 and $650.
Curated with the help of the Crafts Council, What is luxury? is a window into the world of luxe, seen through an exhibition of over 100 exceptional objects on show at the V&A from April. From the Hermès Talaris saddle to a haute couture gown by Iris Van Herpen, the exhibition will chart the development of luxury through the finest of pieces, transcending the eras. Rarity, savoir-faire, time and precision are the elements needed to make true luxury goods highlighted in a show that considers the future of luxury, revealing art and design projects exploring the use of modern values and materials. Showcasing everything from gold to fine fabrics, the exhibition will follow in the wake of the previous collaborations between the Crafts Council and the British museum (Out of Ordinary, 2007 and The Power of Making, 2011), in your chance to lift the lid on the perception of luxury and the exceptional savoir-faire and crafts associated with it.
“What is Luxury?”, a V&A and Crafts Council exhibition sponsored by Northacre from April 25 to September 27 2015, at the Porter Gallery at the Victoria & Albert Museum , London
Above photo: Iris van Herpen.
The lingerie label will show its first artisan collection La Perla Made to Measure during Couture Week, which will take place from January 25 to 30 in Paris. On January 26 in a yet-to-be-announced location, Emiliano Rinaldi‘s label will showcase fine embroidery and luxe fabrics in a celebration of the savoir-faire and artisan legacy of a house founded 60 years ago in Bologna. With intricate lace, subtle plays on cuts and transparency, the collection of night shorts, lingerie and tops – to wear during the day and at night – has decidedly couture accents and will be available following the show in the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoréboutique, before being brought to La Perla boutiques around the world the following week. The La Perla Atelier collection will also be available as part of the Made-to-Measure service launched last year, bringing a personal touch to fine luxe lingerie.
La Perla haute couture collection to be shown January 26 2015 in Paris.
The most irreverent model is currently preparing her conquest of the big screen with no less than six awaiting film releases in 2015, including a version of Peter Pan directed by Joe Wright.