As i woke up this morning and gazed out of my window i saw tiny raindrops falling down on the roofs in a shy attempt to let us know that autumn is here. The city is still half asleep, trams are taking their courses clanking lazy on the streets that all of a sudden look different, cabs are waiting silently for the hasty clients, threatening clouds are crowding to cover the city and there is the almost imperceptible wind, yet strong enough to shake down the dead leafs. I hit my rumbling coffee maker and the familiar sound is music to my ears, nothing like the smell of freshly made coffee in the morning and a delicious full of calories chocolate muffin that im planning to work of at my Pilates course later on, but then again it is weekend, the last summer weekend and i intend to enjoy it as much as i can. As i grab a satisfied bite, put on a casual light cardigan, rain stops and sun invades my house, but its power is diminished, the light is different and those clouds don’t look like they want to go away. Well, autumn is here alright, nature is showing it and i didn’t realize the change until this particular morning. I’m ok with that. After all, seasons change. So do cities. People come into your life and people go. For most of us holidays are over, for others they just begin. New York in autumn is the perfect break, is at its best during the cool crisp days of autumn. Nowhere else will you have more fun in autumn, there is so much to look at, even when you are just taking a walk down a residential block, or Fifth Avenue, Madison Avenue or Broadway, in a comfortable pair of shoes and simply sightseeing. Besides, the city hosts the most irresistible events and exhibitions now than at any other time of year.
Japan also draws a large number of travelers to “famous koyo spots” both in the mountains and in the cities. Each year, starting mid September, the “koyo front” slowly moves from the northern island of Hokkaido until it reaches the lower elevations of central and southern Japan towards the end of November. Some trees around Tokyo and Kyoto stay colorful into early December. The Japanese autumn is what cherry blossoms are to spring.
So it’s not necessarily the end of holidays but a different beginning of a different holiday.
As for the fashion fall season is all about contrast. Ambiguity between masculine and feminine, strength and fragility, opulence and grunge, past and present… These contrasts reflect the multiple facets of the 21st century woman and, above all, celebrate her personal style.
Next season navy blue is the new black. Made famous by the British Royal Navy, the dark blue adapted itself into the world of fashion and appears as next winter’s standout color. Wear it head-to-toe, as seen at Céline and Chloé, or as a heavy, men’s coat like those seen at Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander. Also seen at Hermes, Nina Ricci, Calvin Klein.
The must-have fur coat for next winter comes straight from the wild in-pop colors with disco and grunge flares. As if they were dipped in fluorescent paints and bleached in acid, furs goes two-tone and tricolor, and blacks change to neon yellow and hot pink as brown turns red or green.
This wool fabric excels in elegance next season and reinvents itself in various forms. Under the legendary influence of Coco Chanel, who feminized the typically masculine fabric, designers created looks in the carded, flexible material at Chanel, Haider Ackermann and Dolce & Gabbana.
From red checks, to green, blue and black plaid, this season the clan beckons as everything from the traditional to the modern appeared printed with Scottish tartan. Think grunge at Saint Laurent and masculine at Céline and Stella McCartney for a hint at how designers gave the kilt fabric their own inspirational twist.
Typically a couture embellishment, the ostrich feather appeared for Fall/Winter 2013-2014 in a ready-to-wear version. Soft and light, it punctuated each silhouette with elegance and grace, adding luxury to gowns and separates alike. Aside from Gucci also seen at Oscar de la Renta, Vivienne Westwood, Vuitton, Proenza Schoulder, Dries Van Noten.
As seen at Chanel, Emilio Pucci, Céline, Balmain, H&M and Zadig & Voltaire, leather coated legs in thigh-high boots and slick stockings is one of the essential trends for Fall/Winter 2013 – 2014. Suede folk versions appeared at Emilio Pucci and Balmain, while a smooth leather was like a second skin at Céline, but it was at Chanel where soft leather stuck to legs as a type of stocking tucked into boots, Karl Lagerfeld explained backstage at the Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-2014 show.
This season, studied dishevellment is back as designers reinvented the non-conformist vibe of the ‘80s grunge scene. Take a hint of punk, add a little rock, mix in some heavy metal and you’ll have the deliberately grungy appeal of the looks that hit the runway. Studded leather, mesh stockings and plaid shirts felt made us feel as if we had stepped into the wardrobes of Courtney Love and Blondie circa 1989, but only with an added couture feel. This fashion revival is the ultimate in laid-back, rebellious style seen also at Vivienne Westwood, Rodarte, Emilio Pucci, Haider Ackermann.
A reliable, instant pick-me-up, white invites itself into our wardrobes each winter and this year is no exception. It arrives bearing gifts in a soft, reassuring cream tint, as seen at Isabel Marant, Valentino, Céline, Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, Mugler and Nina Ricci.
With girly hearts, frivolous stars and even childhood characters like Bambi, designers have certainly made a playful stamp on next season. The youthful trend was contrasted with transparency and patent leather at Burberry Porsum, a grunge charm at Yves Saint Laurent and midnight black at Givenchy. Seen also at Hermes, Lanvin and Kenzo.
Seen at Balenciaga, Gucci, Proenza Schouler, Givenchy, Alexander Wang and Kenzo.
Beauty of the day
Fur on bare skin, sheer, lingerie details and vinyl trench coats make up the tarnished wardrobes of the 2013 bourgeoisie. The look brings to mind Catherine Deneuve’s character in the film Beauty of the Day, directed by French filmmaker Luis Buñuel, who captured a time when clothes themselves could embody insatiable desires. Seen at Prada, Marc Jacobs, Burberry Prorsum, Vuitton, Versace and Saint Laurent.
With a retro touch and an air of nonchalance, the feminine-masculine look for next winter seems to have been influenced by Gavroche from Les Misérables. The menswear influences took center stage at many shows for Fall/Winter 2013-2014.At Giorgio Armani blazers without sleeves were worn over velvet high-waisted pants, and at Ralph Lauren Magdalena Frackowiak sported a black cap worn to the side, an oversized blouse under a men’s style vest, and pants tucked into boots. The trend was also seen at Comme des Garçons where a retro suit was folded, pleated and transformed into an homage to the great Anna Piaggi.
Seen at Alexander Wang, Balmain, Emporio Armani, Celine, Vuitton, Anthony Vaccarello.
Seen at Anthony Vaccarello, Chloé and Paco Rabbanne, a medieval trend for next season has developed, featuring armor-inspired mesh pieces. Far from weighing down the look, however, this mesh delicately dresses the chest, hips and legs, hiding parts of the female body, yet subtly revealing others, elusively hinting at nudity.
1940s icons Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Veronica Lake and Katherine Hepburn were honored in the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections, especially those shown in Milan. Honing soft shoulders, nipped waists, rounded hips and lowered necklines, designers emulated the hourglass silhouette on their runways, and proved its eternally seductive power. Seen at Gucci, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Dior, Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Powder Pink Coats
Seen at Miu Miu, Christian Dior, Carven, Chanel, Mulbery, Nina Ricci and Rodarte.
Next winter will see girls stealing their boyfriends’ suits, and quite possibly their fathers’ as well as oversized and pin-striped versions hit the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 runways. While mafia inspirations were seen at Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Martin Margiela also picked up the trend with suits reminiscent of the those worn in The Great Gatsby. Also seen at Vivienne Westwood, Ralph Lauren and Emanuel Ungaro.
The fashion set pledges itself to the Marine cause in navy blue and reefer jackets for Fall/Winter 2013-2014, and accessorizes with the iconic Marine uniform cap for those winter months spent island hopping and soaking up some sun on the yacht deck. Seen at Emilio Pucci, Ralph Lauren.
Hope you all had great, relaxant holidays and wish you an even greater fabulous autumn!!!!